Entertaining:
Menus for success
Sharing your hearth and home is truly a gift of yourself. Entertaining does not have to be an enormous production, unless you want it to be. Friends and family feel more a part of things if you allow them to participate. And that, of course, takes a lot of the burden from you.
When planning a festive menu, try to balance things so that if someone cannot come with his or her contribution, or if there is a small disaster, your main bases are covered. Balance the menu to include hot and cold foods, easy and more challenging preparations, varying colors and textures, and different levels of complexity of ingredients.
Presentation is important. As I have mentioned before, start with the service in mind when beginning the preparation. If those things are set up and ready to roll, you can move easily from the kitchen to the table. Small, inexpensive touches can make a world of difference. Take a look at the section "To the Table" for more ideas. Just step out and try some things. Let's not lose our fine tradition of entertaining.
I include for you here several menus of foods taken from this book - original recipes and recipes borrowed from other cookbooks. Next, I give you a menu from a professional chef whose recipes are scattered throughout the book. Then, I follow with two menus and the attendant recipes in their entirety from two other professional chefs. I hope this will encourage you to strike out on your own.
I suggest you remember two things. Your family and friends are really there to enjoy each other. The food is just an excuse. Also, a pizza coupon by the phone in case of complete power failure or tornado, boosts your confidence tremendously.
Menus with recipes gathered from this book
All American Grill
Appetizer
Chicago-Style Shrimp, page
Main Course
Inside-out Burgers, page
Belly Acres Potato Salad, page
Grilled corn-on-the-cob with
Adobe Butter, page
Beverage
Sangría, page
Dessert
Tropical Fruit Platter, page
50s Diner Blue Plate Special
Appetizer
Cheese niblets, page
Main course
Knock 'em Dead Meatloaf, page
Potato Mash, page
Steamed peas, page
Beverage
Southern Iced Tea, page
Dessert
Sour Cream Apple Pie, page
Thanksgiving Dinner
Appetizers
Olives in Cheese Puff Paste, page
Marinated Broccoli and Curry Dip, page
Nutsy Bobo page
Soup
Zucchini Soup, page
Main course
The Turkey, page
Mamaw's Dressing, page
Yummy Yams, page
Twice-baked Potatoes, page
Cranberry Chutney, page
Herb Sally Lunn Bread, page
Dessert
Pecan Praline Cheesecake, page
Menu from Breakfast with Friends
Mardi Gras Breakfast
Milk Punch, page
Melon and Berry Platter, page
Grillades, page
Garlic Cheese Grits, page
Casserole Eggs Sardou, page
Blackberry Jam Coffee Cake, page
Now it's your turn! I have included two complete menus for you. They would work nicely for intimate family suppers and for large celebrations. All the techniques you will need are in the technique section. I have not included specific locations for you here. If you feel as if you are working without a net, quietly sit and plan out the process. Remember to start at the end, the table service, and work backwards in your mind.
Jacques Pépin is one of my favorite people. Chef to French presidents and absolute final authority on technique, he enters my kitchen weekly on his PBS series Today's Gourmet. I witnessed his technique in a close. personal way in Aspen recently, and I was astonished at his ability to articulate his methods. I am delighted that he has allowed me to share his menu with you. He speaks to us of his personal connection with Puerto Rico.
Puerto Rican Connection
Onion Soup With Vermicelli
Yellow Rice With Orange Rind
Puerto Rican Pork and Beans
Guava Paste Toast With Mint
This is one of those easy, quickly prepared soups that we often make at home when we feel like eating soup and have no time to cook. I like it when the onions are cooked for long enough over high heat to become a rich, dark-brown color. To make a standard onion soup, a gratinée, omit the pasta and chives, top each bowl of soup with two or three toasted baguette slices and some grated Gruyere cheese, and place the bowls in a 400-degree oven until the cheese on top is crusty and brown. This is very good, certainly, although much more caloric than the rendition that follows.
Onion Soup With Vermicelli
1 tablespoon corn oil
4 medium onions (1 pound total), peeled and sliced thin
6 cups light chicken or beef broth, or a mixture of both, preferably homemade and salt-free
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup (2 ounces) vermicelli (angel hair pasta)
2 tablespoons minced chives
Heat the oil until it is hot but not smoking. Add the onions and sauté them over medium to high heat for 10 to 12 minutes, until they are soft and a rich, dark brown-color. Add the stock, salt, and pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil, cover, and boil for 5 minutes. Add the pasta, bring back to a boil, cover, and boil gently for 5 minutes. Divide among four bowls, sprinkle with chives, and serve.
Reprinted by permission from Good Life Cooking by Jacques Pépin, published by KQED Books.
American Indians painted their faces with the dye from achiote seeds. Virtually tasteless, they lend bright color to the rice. They soften somewhat after cooking and are edible, but you can sauté them in the oil and butter until they have released their color and then remove and discard them before adding the onions and pepper flakes to the pan. For a more conventional white rice, omit the achiote seeds and orange rind.
Yellow Rice With Orange Rind
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 1/2 teaspoons unsalted butter
1 cup chopped onions
1 teaspoon achiote (annatto) seeds
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 cup long-grain white rice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons grated orange rind
Heat the oil and butter in a saucepan. When they are hot, add the onions, achiote seeds and red pepper flakes. Cook over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Mix in the rice. Add 2 cups water, the salt, and the orange rind. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook gently for 20 minutes.
Reprinted by permission from Good Life Cooking by Jacques Pépin, published by KQED Books.
My wife, Gloria, is of Puerto Rican ancestry, and she often prepares this type of dish when we have guests, especially family visiting from Europe. A satisfying, one-dish meal, it can be cooked ahead and frozen, and it is even better reheated. Buy the meatiest, leanest country-style spareribs you can find. Note that the cilantro stems are cooked with the beans to give them an unusual and definitive flavor, and then the leaves are added at the end. We particularly like the flavor of cilantro, but if you object to its taste, omit it from the recipe.
Puerto Rican Pork and Beans
1 tablespoon canola oil
4 country-style pork loin spareribs (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1/2 cup)
2 medium onions (about 10 ounces total), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (1/2 cup)
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped (about 1 tablespoon)
3 bay leaves
1 teaspoon oregano
1 can (1 pound) whole tomatoes
1 small jalapeño pepper, chopped (about 2 teaspoons)
2 teaspoons salt
1 pound dried red kidney beans, sorted to remove any stones and washed
1 bunch cilantro (coriander or Chinese parsley), stems and leaves chopped separately (1/4 cup chopped stems, 2 teaspoons chopped leaves)
Heat the oil in a sturdy saucepan. When it is hot, add the pork in one layer and cook it over medium heat for about 30 minutes, turning it until it is brown on all sides. Add 4 cups cold water and all the remaining ingredients except the chopped cilantro leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer gently for 1 3/4 to 2 hours, until the meat is tender. Divide among four individual plates, sprinkle with the chopped cilantro leaves.
Reprinted by permission from Good Life Cooking by Jacques Pépin, published by KQED Books.
This dish holds happy taste memories of childhood for my wife. Her Puerto Rican mother served guava paste often, and I have learned to like it too, especially in combination with a little cream cheese and mint. You’ll find it in the ethnic food sections of most supermarkets and in Latin American specialty food stores. This is good not only as a dessert but also as an afternoon snack or buffet dish.
Guava Paste Toast With Mint
4 thin slices white bread, crusts removed
4 ounces cream cheese
1 can (1 1/2 pounds) guava paste
24 mint leaves
No more than 30 minutes before serving, toast the bread slices lightly and cut each of them into six pieces. On each piece, place a small slice of cream cheese and top it with a small slice of guava paste. Garnish each toast with a mint leaf and arrange them on a plate.
Leftover guava paste, well wrapped, will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator.
Reprinted by permission from Good Life Cooking by Jacques Pépin, published by KQED Books.
Now for something really challenging! Don't let the exotic feeling of the unknown keep you from trying this menu. Connie Chesnel's work takes us all over the Rocky Mountain region with fabulous photographs and menus which celebrate the tastes of many cultures of the region.
I have chosen this series because the techniques are well written and intuitive. You should need to refer to the technique section of this book very little. Good luck!
Basque Festival Outdoor Dinner
Roast Leg of Lamb
Red Beans with Homemade Chorizos
Chickory Salad
Sourdough Sheepherder Bread
Gateau Basque
Roast Leg of Lamb
1 leg of lamb with shank (6 to 7 pounds)
4 garlic cloves, cut in slivers
1 cup hearty red wine
1/4 cup olive or vegetable oil
1 bay leaf
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pierce the lamb in several places with the point of a sharp knife, and insert half the garlic slivers. Mix the wine, oil, bay leaf, and salt and pepper to taste with the remaining garlic. Rub 1/2 cup of the mixture into the meat with your hands. Let the lamb rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, then rub in one-quarter more of the marinade. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the lamb in a shallow roasting pan and roast for approximately 90 minutes (15 minutes per pound) for medium but still pink. Baste several times during the roasting with the remaining marinade. Test for doneness with the point of a knife.
Serves 12 to 15
Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989
Red Beans With Homemade Chorizos
2 pounds (5 cups) dried red beans
1 large onion stuck with 5 cloves
1 ham hock (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 (1-pound) can Italian plum tomatoes, chopped and with juice reserved
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
1 (6-ounce can tomato paste
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 bay leaves
5 chorizo sausages (about 1 1/2 pounds), cut into 1/2-inch slices (recipe for homemade Chorizos follows, or use any good-quality commercial brand)
Soak the beans overnight in enough cold water to cover. Drain the beans and place in a large pot with the onion and ham hock; add cold water to cover by about 3 inches. Bring to a boil and skim foam off the top. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 1 1/2 hours. Set the ham hock aside and discard the onion. Add the remaining ingredients, including the reserved tomato juice and the chorizos. Continue to simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, or just until the beans are tender. Trim the fat and gristle from the ham hock; cut the meat from the bone and chop it into small pieces. Return the meat to the pot for the last 15 minutes of cooking.
Serves 12 to 15.
Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989
To make chorizos, you need to order 24 feet of medium sausage casings from your butcher. You also need a sausage stuffer. Attachments are available for various brand-name electric mixers as well as for hand-operated meat grinders. The Basques usually make at least 50 pounds of sausage at a time. This recipe make 10 pounds, or around forty sausages. You can make half this quantity if you prefer.
Homemade Chorizos
1 pound large, dried sweet red chiles, or 1/2 cup sweet Hungarian paprika
10 pounds coarsely ground pork with some fat
1 small bulb garlic ground, to a pulp
3/4 cup cold water
1/4 cup salt, approximately
If using dried chiles, seed them under cold running water, put them in a large bowl with water to cover, and soak overnight. Put the peppers through a food mill to remove the skins. You should have about 3 cups of pulp. Put the pulp in a large bowl, add the pork, and mix well with your hands. If using paprika, sprinkle it over the meat and mix in well. Cover the bowl with a clean dish towel. Mix the garlic and water and pour onto the towel, letting the liquid drain into the meat. Take care that pieces of the garlic don’t get into the meat; they will cause it to discolor and eventually spoil. When all the water has seeped through the cloth, scrape the garlic to the center, gather the cloth around it, and squeeze the remaining liquid into the meat. Discard the garlic. Add the salt to the meat, 1 tablespoon at the time, mixing well after each addition. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The next morning make a small patty, fry until well cooked, taste for seasoning, and add more salt to the mixture if needed, then refrigerate again overnight. Otherwise, proceed to make the chorizos. Put the sausage casings in cold water to cover and soak for 30 minutes or more. Stuff the casings according to the instructions with your sausage stuffer, using kitchen twine to tie the casings every 6 inches. Puncture the sausages with the point of a knife every 2 inches all around to aid in the drying process. Hang strings of 3 or 4 sausages each in a cool (40 to 50 degrees), well-ventilated place to dry. A small fan to create air movements is helpful, but be sure it doesn’t blow directly on the sausages and dry them too quickly on the outside. In cool weather, you can hang the sausages in a garage or basement with the door left open. Put a pan or papers under the sausages, since liquid will drain from the punctures in the casings. Let the sausages dry for 3 days, rotating away from air current if some are drying faster than others. If the temperature is not consistently cool, dry for 4 days. After they have dried, the sausages will be ready to cook with the red beans. They can also be steamed, baked, or fried for 20 to 30 minutes and eaten as is, or used in other dishes. The chorizos can be stored in a container or plastic bag and refrigerated for 5 to 6 days, or put into freezer bags and frozen for up to 3 weeks.
Makes 40 sausages
Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989
Chicory Salad
2 medium cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced
salt
2 medium heads chicory, torn into bite-size pieces
2 medium red bell peppers, cut into julienne strips
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
6 radishes, thinly sliced
4 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, using 1 to 2 inches of green parts
Dressing:
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
1 small clove garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 cup olive oil
Put the cucumbers in a colander, sprinkle with salt, and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes or more. Mix the first 5 dressing ingredients in a small bowl with a whisk or fork. Slowly add the oil in a very fine stream, whisking constantly until well blended. Rinse and pat cucumbers dry with a paper towel. Place in a large bowl, add the rest of the salad ingredients, and toss with dressing.
Serves 12 to 15
Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989
This is a modern version of the classic sheepherder’s sourdough made in a Dutch oven. Take your starter out the night before you intend to make the bread and increase it by adding 2 cups of warm water and 2 cups of flour. The next day, measure out the starter you need, and return the rest to the refrigerator.
Sourdough Sheepherder Bread
2 cups sourdough starter
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 cups tepid water
8 cups bread or all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
Cornmeal for dusting
Pour the starter into the bowl of a large mixer, and add the oil and water. Mix gently on slow speed, using the paddle attachment, while you add up to 7 cups of the flour, 1 cup at the time. If the dough seems too wet, add 1/2 cup more flour. (Be careful not to add too much flour, since the dough should remain sticky.) Add the salt and mix well. Change to a dough hook and knead for 6 minutes on medium speed. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for about 3 minutes. The dough should be very elastic, soft, and smooth. Lightly oil and dust a 12-inch Dutch oven with cornmeal, put the dough in cover with a cloth, and let rise in warm place (70 to 80 degrees) until it is doubled in size. This can take from 1 1/2 to 3 hours, depending on the leavening effect of the starter. Place a bowl of water in the bottom of the oven, and preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Slash a design in the top of the risen dough. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 400 degrees, remove the bowl of water, and bake the bread for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the bottom sounds hollow when tapped and the bread is golden brown. Let cool on a rack and wrap in a cloth or a paper - not plastic - bag.
Serves 12 or more
Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989
This is a specialty of Mireille and Alex Dusser of Alex’s restaurant in Park city, Utah. Make two cakes to serve 12.
Gateau Basque
Pastry Cream
3/4 cup milk
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons flour
2 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
1/4 cup finely chopped blanched almonds
Cake
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3 eggs
1 cup sugar
3/4 cup (6 ounces) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to room temperature
Juice of 1/2 medium orange
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract or anise extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
1 egg, beaten
Scald the milk in a small saucepan. Beat the sugar, flour, and egg yolks together until light in the top of a double boiler. Add the scalded milk gradually, blending well. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until the mixture begins to thicken. Remove from heat, add flavorings and almonds, and continue to stir for a few minutes. Cover and cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile make the cake. Mix flour and baking powder together in a small bowl. Beat the egg and sugar lightly in a medium mixing bowl. Slowly add the butter while stirring. Add the flour mixture a little at a time, mixing after each addition. Stir in the juice and flavorings. Let the batter rest, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 9-inch cake pan with removable bottom. Divide the dough into 2 portions, one slightly larger than the other. Place the larger portion of the dough in the pan, flattening and spreading with your fingers until it comes about 1 1/2 inches up the sides of the pan. Pour in the cooled custard, spreading it to within 1/2 inch of the sides of the pan, taking care that it does not touch the sides at any point. Pipe the remaining dough through a pastry bag in a spiral pattern over the custard, making sure the batter touches the sides of the pan; or pat the batter into a circle large enough to touch the sides of the pan and place it on top of the custard. With the tines of the fork. lightly mark the top with two sets of diagonal lines in a crosshatch pattern. Brush with the beaten egg and bake for 40 minutes, or nicely browned. Let the cake cool in the pan.
Makes 6 servings
Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989